Journalists at 1986 Press Conference.

This "official" photo taken on the steps of 101 Lockhurst Lane just re-surfaced. 

The occasion was a Viscose Europe Press Conference in June 86 at which the first public presentations of the Tencel project were given.

Robert Smith and I represented Courtaulds Research and Lydia Cain is next to David Wilkinson.  (Please add a comment if you recognise any others.)

Other photos of the same event are at Tencel debuts as Genesis

Tencel in Courtaulds Annual Reports (1981-90)

The Courtaulds Annual Reports contain concise statements of the progress of the Tencel development year-by-year.  These statements have been pasted into a series of 10 posts which can be read in sequence by scrolling down from here:

1981-82 - under "Research"

Technology is being developed in the use of novel solvents for the conversion of woodpulp to regenerated cellulose products, leading to lower effluent levels and reduced energy consumption in the manufacturing process.

1982-83 - under "Courtaulds Research"

 A pilot plant incorporating a process which directly dissolves cellulose ran successfully towards the end of the year.  First indications are that the process may provide a low cost route to novel types of fibres and films.

1983-84  - under "Courtaulds Research"

Development of the new process for directly dissolving and regenerating cellulose continued.  Samples of fibres, of fabrics made from them and of transparent films have been produced, all with interesting properties.

1984-85 - Under "Research"

The research progamme into the production of new fibres and films by direct dissolution and regeneration of woodpulp continued successfully.

1985-86 - under "Research"

The development of a direct solvent spinning system for cellulosic fibres and films continued successfully.  An expanded pilot plant will be available by the end of 1986.
1986-87 -  under "Fibres"
Research expenditure was again at a high level for all fibres, but especially in the development of the new solvent-spun cellulose fibre.  Its pilot-plant came on stream and good progress has been made on the next stage of production which will make commercial quantities available.
               - under "Research"
The programme to develop a new range of cellulosic fibres using a new direct solvent spinning system continued with the successful commissioning of an expanded pilot-plant and with engineering developments for further expansion.  The process gives significant improvements over existing fibre properties and environmentally.
1988-89 - under "Fibres"
The first commercial scale Tencel plant was commissioned during the year. Its capacity is modest and design work on larger units is now well underway.
                - under "Research"
Substantial work was undertaken to transfer expertise learned on the pilot plant...to the scaled up plant commissioned...at Grimsby.
1989-90 - under "Fibres and Films"
The new solvent spun fibre Tencel continued to progress well.

N.B.  (1) Tencel is not mentioned in the "Research and Technology" section in 89-90.
        (2) The Textiles business had been demerged and was no longer part of the Courtaulds Group.
        (3) Saiccor Pulp (the best pulp for making Tencel) had been sold in 1988 to fund acquisitions of US sealants and adhesives.
        (4) Bonded Fibre Fabric, the nonwoven business which had been modernised at the end of the eighties, was sold at the end of March.  (Tencel was showing great promise in nonwovens)
        (5) Prior to 1989-90, "Fibres" came immediately after the "Chairman's Statement" at the front of the Annual Report.   Here "Fibres" comes last after Coatings, Performance Materials, Packaging and Chemicals.  Furthermore it has been merged with the "Films" used in packaging - cellophane, polypropylene and polyethylene.  Maybe the continued development of Tencel clashed with the emerging strategy of getting out of Fibres and Textiles and was therefore downplayed.

Thanks to Ted Richards who provided the full set of Courtaulds Annual Reports from 1970 to 98

Innovation: Product Development with Tencel (1985-94)

Work with potential customers started in secret in October 1985 based on Coventry pilot plant Tencel.  All the developments to 1994 were organised by Courtaulds Research in conjunction with sales offices outside the UK and Tencel sales. 
There's a bias to nonwovens and technical textiles here because I have little information on the development of apparel textiles. Comments and additional information from those involved is welcome as always!

1985:

Products:  Hydroentangled dry-laid nonwovens, woven Tencel gauze

Markets:  Surgical Swabs (cotton gauze replacement)

Partners:  Chicopee USA,  Johnson and Johnson

Key Players:  Alton Bassett, Eric Attle (CNA)
Products:  Hydroentangled Coverstock (Topsheet)

Markets:  Diapers, Femcare

Partners:  Unicharm (Japan)

Key Players:  Migaku Suzuki,
1986:

Products: Hydroentangled Nonwovens

Markets:  Disposable Wipes

Partners:  Chicopee NV, Johnson and Johnson

Key Players:  Derek Rochford, John Elves

Products: Thermal bonded nonwovens

Markets:  Interlinings

Partner:  BFF Nonwovens

Key Players:  Taki Tyropolis, Bill Kennard
Products: Thermal bonded nonwovens

Markets:  Wipes

Partners:  J W Suominen

Key Players: Jorma Suominen, Esa Paltaala

Products:  Wet-laid nonwovens/Special Papers

Markets: Abaca replacement, tea-bags, food casings
Partners: JR Crompton (UK)
Key Players: Brian Tomkinson, Ivan Gbur
Products: Wet-laid nonwovens
Markets: Drapes/Gowns/Central Sterilising Room Wrap
Partners:  Dexter USA
Key Players: Alan Meierhofer
Products: Latex bonded nonwovens
Markets:  Disposable Wipes
Partners:  International Paper,
Key Players:  Zoltan Mate, Eric Attle (CNA)
Products: Thermal bonded (Powder Bonding)

Markets:  High Loft absorbents

Partners:  Bonar Carelle

Key Players:  ?
1987:

Products: Wet-Laid Nonwovens

Markets:  Wet-Wipes (Viscose replacement - low odour)

Partners:  Stora Kopparberg

Key Players:  Stefan Fors, Peter Fredericks
Products:  Modified Apertured Fabrics

Markets:  "J-Cloths" (polyester replacement), Swabs

Partners:  Johnson and Johnson (Canada)

Key Players:  Errol Tan
Products:  Hydroentangled Nonwovens

Markets:  Surgical drapes and gowns (polyester replacement)

Partners:  Chicopee USA,  Johnson and Johnson

Key Players:  Alton Bassett, Eric Attle (CNA)
Products: Tampons

Markets:  Femcare

Partner:  Johnson and Johnson (Germany)

Key Players:  Fritz Weinstrauch, Rolf Altdorf
Products: Tampons

Markets:  Femcare
Partner:  Tambrands (USA)

Key Players:  Ken Merrill, Eric Attle (CNA)

Products: Dry-Laid Nonwovens - various bonding

Markets:  Interlinings

Partner:  Freudenberg (Germany)

Key Players:  Gerhard Schaut, Johannes Knocke
Products:  Hydroentangled Nonwovens

Markets:  Surgical Dressings (cotton and polynosic replacement)

Partners:  Unicharm (Japan)

Key Players:  Migaku Suzuki, Kunihiko Tozaki (CJL)
1988:

Products:  Flame Retardant Tencel
Markets:  Workwear

Partners:  Albright and Wilson(UK)

Key Player:  David Cole, Les Pearson

Products: Dry Laid Thermal Bonded

Markets:  Floppy Disc Liners

Partners:  Freudenberg

Key Players:  Holger Buchwald

Products: Dry-Laid Latex Bonded

Markets:  Battery Separators

Partners:  BFF

Key Players:  Andrew Kelly

Products: Hydroentangled Coverstock

Markets:  Diapers/Femcare

Partner:  Kendall/International Paper

Key Players:  Drew Horn
Partner: J&J Personal Products
Key Player:  Beth Stern
1989:
Products:  Paper

Markets:  Security Papers

Partners:  Portals (UK), Tumba Bruk (Sweden)

Key Player:  Paul Howland,

Products: Wet-Laid Hydroentangled

Markets:  Industrial Wipes

Partners:  Molnlycke (Holland)

Key Player: Bernt Johannsen

(1990's developments follow)

The Original Financial Assumptions - Part 2 (1986)

This continues from Part 1.  Comments later...

The Original Financial Assumptions - Part 1 (1986)

The recent posts of analysts views of Tencel and their estimates of costs reminded me to check back to the original documents to see the Courtaulds Research projections made 10 years earlier in 1986.

The differences are, not surprisingly, substantial, but not all due to overoptimism on the part of Courtaulds Research.  More comments later...

Viscose Rayon and Tencel Processes Compared (1986)

This post is out of sequence but compared with the last one it serves to indicate how much progress was made in less than 10 years.

The copy below is from the document used to justify the first major scale-up of the Genesis process from Research to the Grimsby factory.  It's interesting to note how "the use of spare acrylic fibre equipment...to minimise capital costs" over 25 years ago effectively finalised the broad aspects of Tencel process design in Courtaulds.  

This use of Courtelle washing and drying technology, an old tow route developed from a viscose tow line to make fibre for stretch-breaking, defined the presentation and processability of the future Tencel .  

Mechanical crimp as used on thermoplastic fibres was needed prior to dry cutting to make a processable staple fibre from the tow. This had never been used commercially on a 100% cellulose tow and the early fibre suffered from low cohesion and crimper damage which made it difficult to process at high speed, especially on nonwoven lines.  

Early Tencel was in fact best in the tow market and made an excellent short-cut fibre which easily outperformed viscose in wet- and air-laid nonwovens and paper.

(This extract is from a document entitled "Project Genesis" 1/9/86, but no authors are mentioned)

The Rayon market in 1986. Not an obvious investment choice.

The following cutting is the 1986 view of the global market for cellulosic fibres, probably a combination of viscose staple and filament, as presented in the Tencel scale-up justification. Decline was seen as inevitable, not only because of the polluting nature of the viscose process as highlighted here, but also because synthetics based on cheap oil were encroaching into the absorbent and hygiene products markets: a rayon "fortress".  Polyester/cotton blends were pre-eminent in commodity textiles and the case for the higher value, stronger cellulosics such as Modal and Polynosic rayons was diminishing. (polyester in the blend provided strength more cheaply)

20 years on, the outlook had changed dramatically with cellulosics capacity approaching double the capacity of 1986.  However only ~5% of the new capacity was based on the new pollution-free process.  The viscose processes had proved a cheaper and more attractive investment than lyocell and furthermore the lyocell technology was controlled by Lenzing.

The '86 cutting follows:

First use of the tencel word? (1986)

This cutting from the Sept 1986 S25 justification document mentions a new generic name being proposed to the International Bureau Of Standardization Of Man-Made Fibres.  I guess this was tencel.  (Comments from those involved would be welcome).  

Between BISFA considering tencel and Courtaulds later adopting Tencel as the brand, two or three years elapsed and lyocell was chosen as the generic because tencel had become too associated with the Courtaulds fibre.

(FIC = Federal Trade Commission?)

Tencel Fibre Characteristics (1986)

Here is the 1986 view of the properties of Tencel (Genesis) fibre properties as they were presented in the s25 justification documents. 

Tencel debuts as Genesis (1986)

The first public announcement of the Genesis project was in the June 7th 1986 issue of Nonwoven Markets Newsletter, the leading US nonwoven news source at that time.  This has been kindly scanned and sent in by David Allan, Editor, yesterday.  The original was apparently rather yellow and the text has been doubled in size to improve its readability. (Hopefully a better copy will emerge.)

Points to note:

• Amine oxide is described as a "light duty detergent".
• Courtaulds say marketing is using a "Scattergun approach"
• The fibre will target mid to high end cotton apparel, sheeting in home textiles and speciality wipes in nonwovens.
• 50kg batches of fibre are being made.
• A larger Coventry pilot line is under construction and due to start in early 1987.
• Future expansion in the USA "as soon as commercially feasible"

A copy of the original follows.  It was written by the then editor, Lydia Cain, who enjoyed a visit to Courtaulds Research and a Stratford on Avon river cruise (along with several European journalists whose articles have yet to re-appear) at the invitation of Viscose Europe.  Pat White and I gave the presentations on Genesis and nonwovens development respectively.

Click to enlarge: clockwise from Lydia Cain in the port bow: me, Peter Lennox-Kerr, Pat White, ?, ?,Geoff Blackburn, To the left of Lydia, Robin Anson. No others recognisable.

Below is a photo from Courtaulds News sent in by Iain Jack.  On this one Siggy Waegner is standing behind Pat White

Hydroentanglement of Tencel (1986)

This is the earliest set of results to emerge so far on Genesis in hydroentanglement.  It is from the Sept 1986 "Project Genesis" document and shows the remarkable wet fabric properties obtained on a production line in Chicopee Cuijk and on Courtaulds Research Honeycomb* pilot line. 

*Honeycomb were, before Perfojet started offering machinery a year or two after this, the only supplier for this process.  They had supplied part of the Dupont Sontara hydroentanglement process.  Dupont and Chicopee were the only practitioners of the technology (high pressure water jets entangling a loose web of fibre on a perforated conveyor).  In Japan, Unicharm had developed a low pressure system with no conveyor thus avoiding the Dupont/Chicopee patents.  Courtaulds bought this system and were installing a production line at their BFF nonwoven plant in Bridgwater at this time.

Genesis in Textiles. The 1986 View (2)

Fibrillation and dyeing were not thought to be problems for woven fabrics at this time.

(This extract is from a document entitled "Project Genesis" 1/9/86, but no authors are mentioned)

Genesis in Textiles: The 1986 View (1)

This piece considers yarn manufacture, the next to be posted will cover knitting and weaving.  Interesting to see ENKA "Newcell" mentioned as being good on the Murata system. Was this before they decided to focus on continuous filament yarns or were they feeding "Newcell" filament as a core for other staples?

(This extract is from a document entitled "Project Genesis" 1/9/86, but no authors are mentioned)

COURTAULDS SOLVENT SPINNING SYSTEM FOR CELLULOSIC FIBRE (1986)

Courtaulds'  Genesis Project, under development for 6 years, has led to a pilot line capable of making 100kg batches, by a non-continuous process, of solvent spun cellulose fibre. Much of the fibre produced has been evaluated on nonwovens equipment at the company's R and D workshops at Coventry, UK. In 1987 larger quantities of the fibre will be available for customer evaluation. The system, based on use of an amino oxide, offers both production and fibre performance advantages, and nonwoven fabrics made from the fibres show promising wet strength and absorbency properties.


Abstract: Anon, Nonwovens Rep. Int. no. 183, July 1986, pp 3-4


This is the first public reference to Genesis I could find.  If I recall correctly we were talking about it under confidentiality agreements with potential users from late 1985, and later in '86 shipped the first 500kgs from the pilot plant to Holland for a trial at the Chicopee plant in Cuijk.  The chosen technology was card/hydroentanglement (HEF1?) and while the fibre could be processed only at about half normal speed, the resulting fabrics had potential in wipes and medical fabrics (gauze replacements).  John Elves and Derek Rochford were the key personnel in Chicopee at that time.  John Brothers was the Genesis Commercial manager.